Routing

james442 · 12-10-2006, 07:27 AM

Not sure what's going on here, but the only way I can get reaper to record input without recording other tracks is to open Audacity and change imput to "aux". If Audacity is set to mono or stereo then reaper will record the other tracks. I'm sure it's a setting in reaper somewhere that controls the sound card but I have had no "luck" finding it. Thanks for any tips.

Sound card: RealTek AC97

james442 · 12-30-2006, 10:34 AM

I see there's 52 views and no responses, so just in case anyones interested.......I had to open the volume control panel, click options/properties, then the radio button for "recording". Also, in the lower window you can check the controls you want to see, then "OK". There is then a "recording" control on the desktop where you can select the "input" you want and control the input volume. Might seem like a simple thing, but if you don't know...........have been in music for 30+ years but kinda new to this recording on the computer deal. For those who knew but didn't take a moment to help...hope I can return the favor one day. For those who just didn't know, hope this helps.

Serendipity · 12-30-2006, 02:34 PM

The way you've phrased your question is extremely confusing. Why would you need Audacity to record anything in Reaper? I just don't understand your question. That's probably why nobody's bothered to answer as well.

Jae.Thomas · 12-30-2006, 02:57 PM

I honestly have no idea whats going on either . MAybe thats why no one has responded. I suggest you look into the basics of recording digital audio.

however, there sometimes is a recording control for your soundcard that records a "stereo mix" instead of "line in"
check that out.

Jae.Thomas · 12-30-2006, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james442

I see there's 52 views and no responses, so just in case anyones interested.......I had to open the volume control panel, click options/properties, then the radio button for "recording". Also, in the lower window you can check the controls you want to see, then "OK". There is then a "recording" control on the desktop where you can select the "input" you want and control the input volume. Might seem like a simple thing, but if you don't know...........have been in music for 30+ years but kinda new to this recording on the computer deal. For those who knew but didn't take a moment to help...hope I can return the favor one day. For those who just didn't know, hope this helps.

ahhh i see now.

perhaps your question was so confusing and basic that no one had any idea what you are talking about. How about stop passing blame, and perhaps look at the thousands of other posts where people here go OUT of their way to help others.

teej813 · 12-30-2006, 05:14 PM

James,
Like F2, it sounds like you haven't yet configured Windows for proper digital recording.

I'd suggest the Configuring Windows Volume Control tutorial at AudioMinds. While you're there, you might read and study a bit. AudioMinds is designed to help newbies get started in digital recording.

HTH

tj

james442 · 12-30-2006, 07:40 PM

I apologize for getting a little mift, I've been a master automotive tech for most of my life and fooling around with computers for 20 or so years and am more use to being the "answer" guy than the "question" guy. But to be fair, like some of the folks on this forum, I don't mind answering questions from people who know SOMETHING about a car. But I really can't spend the time to answer questions like "how do I check my oil"? For future reference, if I ask a question it's not because I haven't spent a bunch of time looking for the answer on my own. And if I can answer one, I will.
And as recommended, I will check out the AudioMinds website.

Thanks.

Diogenes · 12-30-2006, 08:27 PM

Welcome James,

Also keep in mind a lot of us blow through here in a hurry and don't have time at that exact moment to type out a well thought out reply. Patience is key in this game. Since I have started DAW'ing I have had some joyous moments and some of the MOST frustrating, wanna go SHOOT something moments... Part of the game... Hang in there dude. It's fun and worth the trouble if you have a musical statement to make or just like recording other people.

Reaper rocks and most folk on here are super nice and knowledgable.

D

Jae.Thomas · 12-30-2006, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james442

I apologize for getting a little mift, I've been a master automotive tech for most of my life and fooling around with computers for 20 or so years and am more use to being the "answer" guy than the "question" guy. But to be fair, like some of the folks on this forum, I don't mind answering questions from people who know SOMETHING about a car. But I really can't spend the time to answer questions like "how do I check my oil"? For future reference, if I ask a question it's not because I haven't spent a bunch of time looking for the answer on my own. And if I can answer one, I will.
And as recommended, I will check out the AudioMinds website.

Thanks.

you are an automotive tech?

maybe you can help me with something!!!

I have a 94 chrysler New Yorker, and im having strange electrical issues. Last year, sometimes it wouldnt start and there would be no power anywhere. So i would wiggle the battery cables and viola! it would work again.

simple.

however, it came back a few months later (at the end of the winter) and so i replaced a shoddy looking connector with a nice brass one. (or something). Now, THIs winter, it wont hardly EVER start. I would wiggle and wiggle and nothing. Then it just really died. My friend (eMaRe on this forum) came over to jump it, and as we were jumping it, i got it started, the headlights were on and just fine -- no dimminesss or anything (AFAIK tells me that theres no issue with the alternator) and it seems ready to go. Well, On the way to his house, i hit a bump and made a turn into his drive way, and as the RPMs slowed, the car started shutting off, and eventually did. This time we were not able to get it started again at all, the starter would turn rrrrrrrrruuurrr................................... ..................................rrrrrrrrrrrrruuu uuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrr................................ ...........

nothing that could even cause enough momentum to start the engine.

So its parked there.

any suggestions?

Bevoss · 12-30-2006, 09:29 PM

A match?...

Jae.Thomas · 12-30-2006, 10:19 PM

not an option when its 40 below and i have to go 8 miles to work.

Bevoss · 12-30-2006, 11:04 PM

Sounds like a connection, maybe starter motor or coil? Doesn't sound like the alternator.
You're not in any auto club? Can you tow it to an auto electrician or whatever you call them there to get a check/quote? If it's not intermittent they usually find it fast.

Oh well, Happy New Year. At least you have Reaper...

Jae.Thomas · 12-30-2006, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bevoss

Sounds like a connection, maybe starter motor or coil? Doesn't sound like the alternator.
You're not in any auto club? Can you tow it to an auto electrician or whatever you call them there to get a check/quote? If it's not intermittent they usually find it fast.

Oh well, Happy New Year. At least you have Reaper...

to tow a car you need money , I am not in a car club, and i have no money. O well. Soon enough my break will come!

malcolmj · 12-30-2006, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james442

But I really can't spend the time to answer questions like "how do I check my oil"?

The correct answer to this question is - "If you don't know, take your car to a Mechanic".

Jae.Thomas · 12-31-2006, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by malcolmj

The correct answer to this question is - "If you don't know, take your car to a Mechanic".

exactly..........

eMaRe · 12-31-2006, 01:29 AM

...and now it's plowed in, just so you know. We'll have fun pushing that baby!!!

james442 · 12-31-2006, 09:33 AM

Actually, it could be the alternator. If the battery voltage gets below 11.7 or so, WEIRD stuff (technical terms

) can start happening. The more electronics, the MORE weird. Couple other things to check, You being a technical person I'll assume you know how to use a voltmeter, and it doesn't have to be a fancy high-impedance meter for this, old analog will work. First thing, check battery OCV (open circuit voltage) with everything off, should be at least 12.4 volts. If not, charge the battery until it is. Still won't start......

Quickest and most accurate way to find electrical resistances in the battery cables is by checking "voltage drop". For the positive cable, connect the +lead of the meter to the battery POST (not the terminal, you'll need help), then connect the negative to the POST of the starter (again, not the terminal, the POST where it sticks out past the nut a little. You can usually use the alligator clip here). Lastly, crank the engine and check the voltage WHILE YOUR CRANKING (very important, readings meaningless unless it's cranking over.) Should be less than .5 volts. (I know, it's counterintuitive, trust me!)

For the negative cable, connect the -lead of the meter to the battery negative post, then the positive terminal to the engine BLOCK. Again, crank the engine. You guessed it, should be less than .5 volts. If either are above .5 volts, you have a bad connection somewhere BETWEEN WHERE THE METER LEADS ARE CONNECTED,,meaning you can move your leads up or down the cable (from either direction) to narrow down the location of the problem. Don't forget, you have to crank the engine each time you move the leads! IE: if the meter reading is above .5 and you have one lead on the battery post and the other on the battery terminal, then there's a bad connection between the post and the terminal.

Last but not least, check voltage drop on the POS (main cable) of your alternator (once you get it running). Begin by checking the OCV, then start the engine. If the voltage increases the alternator is charging. If not, you'll have to fix the charging problem first. Once you know it's charging at least some, connect the +lead to the big post on back of the alternator and the negative lead to the positive POST of the battery. Now, make sure you have some load on the system, turn on you hi-beams and your heater blower on high. Right again, reading should be .5 volts or less.

I know this sounds difficult, but if you can grasp this it's EXACTLY what GOOD techs do to narrow down stubborn, intermittent problems that make you go (&*^%&*%$#)!!!

Jae.Thomas · 12-31-2006, 02:14 PM

Its actually not quite intermittent, it is dead. But i will try what you said, and thank you!

Art Evans · 12-31-2006, 05:10 PM

James, if I'd seen your question in the first place, I'd probably have pointed you to the solution in seconds. But somehow it slipped through the net. The forum software seems to me to be unreliable at flagging new posts, in comparison with other boards I visit which don't give me any problems in that regard.

james442 · 01-01-2007, 06:22 AM

Jason, that's the beauty of checking voltage drop over using an ohm meter for example. It CAN find even intermittent problems. That's because even though it may have an "adequate" connection at a given moment to start the car, it's still not a "perfect" connection. Picture one of your large battery cables with every strand of wire cut in two...except one. If you were to check continuity with an ohm meter it would show "zero" resistance, in effect a PERFECT connection! Common sense would tell you there is no way enough electricity to start the car is going to pass through a single strand of wire. VOLTAGE DROP would locate the problem in a matter of minutes! Of course, if it really were only one strand of wire it would melt in two the instant you turned the key. But what if it were only 1/2 of them? Or just a corroded connection?
I'm actually an automotive instructor at the present time, and voltage drop is one of the least understood and most valuble techniques technicians have for finding these types of problems. Less than 10% of the pro-techs out there truly understand it enough to put it to good use. That's why I said "GOOD TECHS" in my last post.

And thanks Art, I appreciate the task you have. And to everyone, REAPER IS AWESOME!! I'm still new to digital recording, but I've looked around enough that Reaper seems to me to be a totally new approach in the way it "handles" the sound files. Props to everyone involved in making it a reality!! One last thing (I promise). PROTECTIONISM SUCKS!!!! I'm glad you chose to make Reaper available the way you did, it will pay off in the end. Now, if only we could convince the music industry............