Old 01-22-2021, 09:27 PM   #1
Tod
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Default Need advice, upgrading my computer..

I've got an i7-4790K with 16GB ram.

I'm actually doing very well with this computer, but my wife needs a better computer, so I thought I'd give her mine and upgrade to something a little better for myself.

I don't want to spend a gazillion dollars, just something a little better then what I've got.

I've got 5 SSD drives, so for now I'm good to go there.

Right now I've got a dual boot system with both Windows-pro7 and Windows-pro10, I'm hoping I can keep that setup.

It's been quite a while since I've done any computer shopping so I thought I'd ask my Reaper friends.
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Old 01-23-2021, 01:35 AM   #2
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If you have any pci cards, you may have a problem. New MBs have only pcie slots.
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Old 01-23-2021, 02:03 AM   #3
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Hey Tod - my i7 4770 is still rocking pretty good, also with 16gb., so not sure where I would go from where we are right now.

From what little I can see of the newer cpus, I don`t see such a huge advantage between them & ours unless you are prepared to spend a LOT of money.

Mind you, it really is just down to new Mobo/cpu, new memory & possibly a new power supply, although I doubt that last one.

Have you considered overclocking yours if you havent already & just getting Herself a nice new box or laptop? I would guess that her needs are different from yours & it could work out better AND cheaper.

If it ain`t broke, don`t fix it.
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Old 01-23-2021, 02:05 AM   #4
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Hi Tod,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod View Post
I'm actually doing very well with this computer,...
'Never change the running system'
Keep yours and buy a suitable one for your wife.
It is not only the new hardware you have to deal with, what is with software licences you have to carry to a new computer?
Whatever, lots of work to be done.
Tomorrow you will get a better one than today for the same bunch of money.
horst
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Old 01-23-2021, 03:43 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by siehorst View Post
'Never change the running system'
Keep yours and buy a suitable one for your wife.
horst
This is actually very level-headed advice. Reading the thread, I was already considering what to suggest, and got lost in the thought without even considering the sense in ^ this approach. So, I wholeheartedly agree: a well running DAW system, meeting your requirements and staying "out of the way", is a precious thing - hehe, well okay, that's perhaps overly dramatic, but a music/audio system tends to be with more possibilities for errors/snags than many other use cases - and if you have yours set up with all the licenses and hardware you need/like... then keep it!
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Old 01-23-2021, 05:18 AM   #6
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I suggest you just build a new computer for the wife with SSD drives and 8 gig of RAM.
For yourself either add another 16 gigabyte or swap your memory out for 32 gigabytes if the former isn't possible.
You've already got a reasonably capable solid performance processor.

Perhaps pick up a nice ultrawide 3440 x1440 display. One of the totally flat or very slightly curved panels. Dell U3415w or similar.
That is of course unless you are running up against a lot of CPU issues. Perhaps you use 200 simultaneous Kontakt tracks, and you don't freeze tracks..

With a already capable CPU like that for a really substantial boost you'll be looking at an i9 methinks.
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Old 01-23-2021, 05:57 AM   #7
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Here are my build options for the past six months. I built two for friends, and am currently waiting for the CPU I chose to have a somewhat normal price again.

This is mostly inexpensive and fast. The cases with excellent airflow I've built in come recommended by the likes of Gamers Nexus(good test data).

The power supply depends on the CPU and graphics card choice. I'm still running my 6700K, three SSDs and two HDs, a GTX 1070 on a 500 Watt Bequiet Straight Power 10.

The Ryzens up to 5950X use a max of about 140 Watts, so even that won't bother a well made power supply. A 650 Watt supply should be the most you need unless the gfx card chews up more than 200 Watts. Then the efficiency curve of most supplys give you a good reason to go up to 750 Watt power supply units.

I'm securing the future upgradability of my new system build with a Corsair 750 RMi. Just because of gfx cards really.

However the last build I did(cheap as possible) was with a Pure Power 10 supply of 650 Watts(60 Euros), Ryzen 3600XT (special offer 200 Euros), 16 GB Ram(GSkill Ripjaws 3200 iirc, 60 Euros) on an MSI Tomahawk B450 Max (90 Euros special offer). He got a used 5700XT for a gfx card, which is a 200 Watt+ part. All runs like a dream off a 1TB NVMe in a Phanteks P400A case.

You can run the built in fans slower due to the excellent airflow in those cases. The Lian Li even has a switch for three speeds on the top of the case.
  • Phanteks P400A (Digital-RGB version)
  • Lian Li Lancool Mesh II (Performance version with two fans)
  • Phanteks P500A(3-fan RGB version)
I can very much recommend the review videos of Gamers Nexus. Excellent test data. Their years best video is a good pointer.

CPU
Even the Ryzen 3600 is 50% faster than my 6700K which is only a little fasterthan the 4790K. So take your pick. If you can get hold of a 5600X for a good price, you're off to the races. That thing is 2.75x the speed of the 4790K in CPU benchmarks. :P The big option is the 5950X. That's a factor of 5.7x. If you can get that thing for a good price.

RAM is critical. Pick a reliable mainboard(good VRM, memory compatibility and required feature set) and study the memory support list(MSL).

For Ryzen CPUs, Crucial memory is great, as is GSkill usually. Check that list to be sure, though Crucial actually garantuess compatibility. Check their memory section on their site where you can enter the mainboard of your choice to check for compatibility. Saves a lot of time IMHO. I imagine PC Part Picker is good at that too ?

And that's it.

For the wifes computer, see what she needs. Maybe your rig is the best fit after all. My i7 920 rig with 6 GB RAM is STILL running after 12 years with a friend.
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Old 01-23-2021, 06:18 AM   #8
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For comparison, here's the progression of some CPUs in terms of raw CPU benchmarks.

We'll take the good old Intel i7 920 at 2.66GHz as the base unit.
  • 1.0 Intel Core i7 920 2.66GHz (4 cores)

  • 3.0 Intel Core i7 4790K 4GHz (4 cores)

  • 3.3 Intel Core i7 6700K 4GHz (4 cores)

  • 6.6 AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6GHz (6 cores)

  • 6.6 Intel Core i7 10700K 3.8GHz (8 cores)

  • 8.2 AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7GHz (6 cores)

  • 14.5 AMD Ryzen 5 5900X 3.7GHz (12 cores)

  • 16.9 AMD Ryzen 5 5950X 3.4GHz (16 cores)

Fun fact. The CPU with the most power usage is the i7 920 at 130 Watts, closely followed by the 10700K at 125. The 4790K is 88 Watts, the 6700K 95 Watts, the 5600X is 65 Watts and the 5900X & 5950X are 105 Watts.

In terms of performance versus price, the 5600X is the best, even at the inflated prices. The normal price is $300 for the 5600X. At $350 I'd still go for it. Remember to get 3200 MHz or 3600 MHz Memory. That's fairly easy now.

As for mainboards, I'd recommend something like Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V2. According the Buildzoid(video link) it has good VRMs, memory compatibility and a feature set that may cover your needs. The x570 boards have more PCIe lanes available for storage needs. And then there are boards that have more than two NVMe drive slots. It's your choice.
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Old 01-23-2021, 07:38 AM   #9
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It depends how you're using these CPUs.
It's my understanding that a lot still really depends on the single core performance, at least outside of benchmarks.
If say Tod is running into lots of CPU problems then I would suggest looking to a CPU with at least 50% higher single core performance for it to be a worthwhile upgrade.
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Old 01-23-2021, 08:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siehorst View Post
Hi Tod,

'Never change the running system'
Keep yours and buy a suitable one for your wife.
It is not only the new hardware you have to deal with, what is with software licences you have to carry to a new computer?
Whatever, lots of work to be done.
Tomorrow you will get a better one than today for the same bunch of money.
horst
This was my first impression as well.

But then the counter to that is the heart wants what the heart wants.

If you do go with a new system, I would recommend reinstalling everything from scratch. With the exception of your data, I would avoid cloning or migrating things from the old to the new as much as possible.

Good luck.
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Old 01-23-2021, 01:15 PM   #11
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Thanks a lot to all of you. Many here suggesting I keep what I have and I appreciate that very much.

In the last couple of years, especially this year, I have found myself in need of a little more power. There are many times I'll have up to 6 or 7 Reaper projects up at the same time. That along with with A video editing software and 3 or 4 instances of a graphics editor. I've also got some new plugins that take their toll. Often I also have the net up because I work with a lot of other people.

All in all I think I could use a little more and I think now is a good time to do it.

Airon, Thank you very much for such an extensive reply, based on what you've provided, I think I have an idea how to progress. I've already got a 750 watt power supply that I just recently installed, my wife wouldn't need quite that much. I've also got all the SSD drives I need, so for my wife's comp, I will only need a small 250GB SSD drive for the OS, along with a 500GB SSD, or maybe a 1TB SSD for her projects.

Again thanks to all of you, I haven't looked for a computer for a long time and just didn't know what was out there.
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Old 01-23-2021, 07:22 PM   #12
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One more aspect of Ram to consider is the latency.

I‘m getting a Ballistix 2 x 32 GB 3600 MHz CL16(16-19-19-38 to be exact) config from Crucial. Plenty of space for all those programs. A good place to start from is CL16, a latency number. There are simple videos on Ram parameters. With a good mainboard you can lower those timings a bit too.

The Memory Support List has memory frequency and a rough indication of CL numbers too, as well as part numbers that are easy to search for on Newegg or the like.

3200 MHz at CL 16 are a minimum spec to look for. 3600 is faster. If you wish, dive deeper with Youtube videos and Ram calculator apps to tune your memory to get that latency down a bit. There‘s lots of stuff to study.
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Old 01-23-2021, 09:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airon View Post
One more aspect of Ram to consider is the latency.

I‘m getting a Ballistix 2 x 32 GB 3600 MHz CL16(16-19-19-38 to be exact) config from Crucial. Plenty of space for all those programs. A good place to start from is CL16, a latency number. There are simple videos on Ram parameters. With a good mainboard you can lower those timings a bit too.

The Memory Support List has memory frequency and a rough indication of CL numbers too, as well as part numbers that are easy to search for on Newegg or the like.
Thanks a lot Airon, I honestly never considered any of this before. When It comes to RAM I just figured RAM is RAN and just took whatever they put in the box.

So you're saying Crucial is the best RAM to get?

Quote:
3200 MHz at CL 16 are a minimum spec to look for. 3600 is faster. If you wish, dive deeper with Youtube videos and Ram calculator apps to tune your memory to get that latency down a bit. There‘s lots of stuff to study.
Okay I just did some googling and I think I'm beginning to see what you mean.

Crucial has 32GB Ballistix 3600 MHz DDr4 DRAM for $173, I don't think I will need any more than that. I currently only have 16GB RAM and I've only run into a few minor problems in the 6 years I had this computer.

I've always been an Intel person, but you seem to be touting the "AMD Ryzen 5 5600X". You may have mentioned it above but what are you using Airon?

I don't think any of this is out of my price range.

I see the "AMD Ryzen 5 5600X" is running $300 to $350+, is that something you would suggest?
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Old 01-23-2021, 09:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod View Post
I see the "AMD Ryzen 5 5600X" is running $300 to $350+, is that something you would suggest?
I recently built a 3700X Ryzen based machine to replace an aged i5 machine I had built eleven years earlier. My specific reason for going with an AMD for the first time in any of my 40+ computer builds was that Intel silicon needs a lot more exclusive patching for security flaws in the chips themselves.

I'm running Linux but this should give you an idea. Each entry that says "Not affected" are things that have to be patched for other non-AMD silicon. My new machine eclipses the previous Intel i5. Has better security out of the box IMO and is more than I need now or probably in the foreseeable future. My $0.02

/vulnerabilities/itlb_multihit:Not affected
/vulnerabilities/l1tf:Not affected
/vulnerabilities/mds:Not affected
/vulnerabilities/meltdown:Not affected
/vulnerabilities/spec_store_bypass:Mitigation: Speculative Store Bypass disabled via prctl and seccomp
/vulnerabilities/spectre_v1:Mitigation: usercopy/swapgs barriers and __user pointer sanitization
/vulnerabilities/spectre_v2:Mitigation: Full AMD retpoline, IBPB: conditional, STIBP: conditional
/vulnerabilities/srbds:Not affected
/vulnerabilities/tsx_async_abort:Not affected
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Old 01-24-2021, 04:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tod View Post
Thanks a lot Airon, I honestly never considered any of this before. When It comes to RAM I just figured RAM is RAN and just took whatever they put in the box.

So you're saying Crucial is the best RAM to get?
It does come recommended. The GSkill Neo Z RAM is reported to be very decent too.

The kits in the 32 GB range (two sticks of dual rank) I considered were
  • Crucial Ballistix schwarz DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR4-3200, CL16-18-18-36 (BL2K16G32C16U4B)
    The minimum. Good timings and a bit of overclocking potential. Just like CPUs, RAM is binned(i.e. sorted) for their capabilities.

  • Crucial Ballistix schwarz DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR4-3600, CL16-18-18-38 (BL2K16G36C16U4B)
    This and the one below would be my picks for 32 GB.

  • G.Skill Trident Z Neo DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR4-3600, CL16-19-19-39 (F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC)
    The one I might have gone for if it wasn't for Crucials kits.

  • G.Skill Trident Z Neo DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR4-3600, CL16-16-16-36 (F4-3600C16D-32GTZN)
    The second fastest 3600 I could find, but already a bit above what I wanted to pay. There's a faster one that's almost 100 Euros more expensive. At that point we're looking at diminished returns.

My choice fell on the 64 GB kit Crucial Ballistix64GB Kit DDR4-3600 CL16 (BL2K32G36C16U4B) because I'm also messing around with Fusion in DaVinci Resolve. I also checked compatibility on their site, as well as the memory supported list for my mainboard, and it all checks out.


Quote:
Okay I just did some googling and I think I'm beginning to see what you mean.

Crucial has 32GB Ballistix 3600 MHz DDr4 DRAM for $173, I don't think I will need any more than that. I currently only have 16GB RAM and I've only run into a few minor problems in the 6 years I had this computer.
The new memory support list for Vermeer(Ryzen 5000 series) chips came out a few weeks ago for all the Gigabyte boards. Just check if the RAM you want to use is on there, and you should be just fine. I'm getting an X570 board because I want to use at least three NVMe drives at one point, so the board I'm using has that.

The only relevant differences for the B550 compared to the X570 chipset is a max of two NVMe and six SATA ports. On the X570 I have eight SATA, two(iirc) of which I can trade for use of the third NVMe drive. Less cables :P .


Quote:
I've always been an Intel person, but you seem to be touting the "AMD Ryzen 5 5600X". You may have mentioned it above but what are you using Airon?

I don't think any of this is out of my price range.

I see the "AMD Ryzen 5 5600X" is running $300 to $350+, is that something you would suggest?
As Gennbo stated, part of it is security. Intel parts also take a LOT more power and thus stronger cooling, and potentially more noise. While you can overclock Intel chips them well, their tech hasn't changed in almost six years, while AMD is fairly new in comparison. This is painfully obvious in both its power consumption per performance metric and security state.

The 5600X is the smallest of the 5000 series parts. If you want more performance than that, the bigger chips are there too. The newer parts, likely next year, will use a different mainboard socket (AM5 it seems), but upgrading to more cores is a pretty good path if your budget warrants it. Just drop in a 5900X and you've almost doubled the capabilities. So upgrading is easy too.

When prices stabalize a bit, the 5900X part will be $550-600, a worthwhile upgrade if you really need it.

Here's my config. The only part I still need to get is the CPU. The rest were purchased when I found a good price and had the money .
Mainboard - Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master, CPU - Ryzen 5950X, 2x32GB 3600 CL16 RAM Crucial Ballistix, Corsair 750 RMi power supply, Phanteks P500A(RGB) case, Noctua NH-D15 cpu cooler, one added NVMe drive - Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB.

Water cooling is excellent and inexpensive too btw, e.g. Arctic Liquid Freezer II 120 to 360 range(see Gamers Nexus reviews). You simply need to check it and perhaps replace it after 4-6 years. The Noctua coolers seem to work almost indefinitely, so they're my pick for zero maintenance.

My current machine is a 6700K with 32GB 3000 Ram, 3 SATA SSDs, 2 HDs on a 500 Watt Bequiet Straight Power 10. I'm keeping it as a backup and secondary system.


The machine I built for my gaming friend was about €600 without a graphics card a few weeks ago. 3600XT, B450 Thunderhawk Max board, 16GB 3200 CL16 RAM, Bequiet Pure Power 11, Phanteks P400A case (smaller than the P500A for clearnce of larger coolers). The power supply is non-modular, meaning the cables are all baked in, and there are a lot of them. Modular power supplies make cable management much easier.

Btw, a decent YT channel for PC builders can be JayzTwoCents. He just put out a "beginner mistakes" video that tought me something I didn't know either. Good channel for building tips.
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Old 01-24-2021, 01:17 PM   #16
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Thanks much Glennbo, I've copied both your's and Airon's posts for reference.

And Airon, I can't thank you enough, I think you've given me exactly what I need to proceed, I would never have found this information or known what I know now.

I've thought about building my comp myself, but dealing with the CPU and getting it installed properly, along with it's cooling kind of freaks me out.

On my current comp, the only cooling is the fan that came with it, it seems to have worked well enough.
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Old 01-24-2021, 01:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Thanks much Glennbo, I've copied both your's and Airon's posts for reference.

And Airon, I can't thank you enough, I think you've given me exactly what I need to proceed, I would never have found this information or known what I know now.

I've thought about building my comp myself, but dealing with the CPU and getting it installed properly, along with it's cooling kind of freaks me out.

On my current comp, the only cooling is the fan that came with it, it seems to have worked well enough.
Good luck on your quest Tod. Snapping a CPU into a socket and putting a cooler on it in isn't much to worry about.

On my build I chose this gamer case,

https://sclkssl.ssl.hwcdn.net/80/img...205_805427.jpg

specifically because I wanted three 120mm slow turning fans to keep the CPU fan from needing to rev up.

The three 120mm fans and CPU fan are all controlled by the mobo, and with a profile my Asus mobo created through an automatic stress test, the big fans are silent, although I can visually see when they are spinning up higher because their lights also get brighter. The smaller CPU fan never spins up to an audible level while using REAPER.
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Old 01-24-2021, 04:57 PM   #18
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Good luck on your quest Tod. Snapping a CPU into a socket and putting a cooler on it in isn't much to worry about.

On my build I chose this gamer case,

https://sclkssl.ssl.hwcdn.net/80/img...205_805427.jpg

specifically because I wanted three 120mm slow turning fans to keep the CPU fan from needing to rev up.

The three 120mm fans and CPU fan are all controlled by the mobo, and with a profile my Asus mobo created through an automatic stress test, the big fans are silent, although I can visually see when they are spinning up higher because their lights also get brighter. The smaller CPU fan never spins up to an audible level while using REAPER.
Thanks Glennbo, I've been looking at cases and most of them don't have any slots on the front for a CD-drive or the usual USB slots. I see your's does have a CD drive.

How many drive bays do you have?

I'm thinking of keeping my case, all my drives are already mounted and connected to the power supply, and all sata data cables are in place ready to be plugged it. Although it might not be suitable for the new mother board I'll have to get?

So it's not that big of deal to install the MB and CPU? Ha ha, you've got me thinking.

When you did your build, did you get any extra stuff like cords? I'm always at a lack for the right screws. Ha ha, on one of my SSD drives I used plastic ties to hold it in place.
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:17 PM   #19
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Got another question guys.

I've got a dual boot system for both Windows 7 and Windows 10 on 2 separate SSD drives. Am I going to be able to get these setup with a new motherboard and the AMD Ryzen 5 5600X? I'm not sure how this works?

I know it's not going to be a plug and play situation and I'll have to program it in the BIOS, I imagine all mother boards have directions to do this. I know my current MB does, it uses <F12> to get to the boot BIOS.

Will I have any problems just hooking up my drives and running the operating systems?
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:29 PM   #20
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The chip type won't effect your dual boot capability.

You may have to get used to a different BIOS as the MB takes care of that.

My BIOS options for my ryzen 3600 was not different enough from the I7 I switched to for me to notice.
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Thanks Glennbo, I've been looking at cases and most of them don't have any slots on the front for a CD-drive or the usual USB slots. I see your's does have a CD drive.
The 5.25" bay was a requirement for me, because I still back a lot of stuff up myself to DVDs. If you go to Newegg.com, you can click stuff like how many 5.25" bays, how many 3.5" and so on.

The link in this text should take you there with some choices already ticked for cases, like at least one 5.25" bay, front/side/rear fans, only new and only sold by Newegg.

Quote:
How many drive bays do you have?
Here's a shot of the inside of that case.

https://sclkssl.ssl.hwcdn.net/12/img...205_805421.jpg

The blue plastic things are quick mounts for up to three 5.25" drives. Only one of those bays is open on the front of the case for a DVD drive. The other two could be used for 5.25" or 3.5" drives.

Then below those three bays there is a single 2.5" bay to mount an SSD without the need for an adapter.

Lastly at the bottom of the case are four more 3.5" bays, so I guess the shorter answer is eight drive bays in total.

Quote:
I'm thinking of keeping my case, all my drives are already mounted and connected to the power supply, and all sata data cables are in place ready to be plugged it. Although it might not be suitable for the new mother board I'll have to get?
I thought about keeping my case for many of the same reasons, but the USB ports on the front of my old case were getting finicky where I'd have to jiggle a USB drive sometimes to get it to make good contact, so I used Newegg's search criteria to zero in on the case I ended up buying. I'm actually glad I made that decision, because it's all the same age now, the mobo, CPU, case fans, and case USB ports.

Quote:
So it's not that big of deal to install the MB and CPU? Ha ha, you've got me thinking.
It's really not much of a big deal. If you've ever installed video cards, sound cards, and RAM into a motherboard before you weren't too far off from putting the other parts together. I've built over 40 machines between my previous job in IT and machines for my home.

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When you did your build, did you get any extra stuff like cords? I'm always at a lack for the right screws. Ha ha, on one of my SSD drives I used plastic ties to hold it in place.
I had to have a power supply overnighted because the 450 watt I had in my previous Intel machine would only blink the lights for a second. I said screw that and bought the 900 watt Apevia power supply you can see in the bottom of the case. That PS exhausts out the back like normal, but it draws air in from under the case and has a removable filter for cleaning. You can see it's blue light and filter on the bottom of the case in the pic.

A new case will usually come with a bag of assorted screws, some standoffs, a few zip ties and other things you might need. I have two SSDs in my case, and only one is actually mounted properly since there was a 2.5" bay, but the other one I have mounted with a single screw in a 3.5 bay sort of like your SSD mounting solution.
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:50 PM   #22
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Got another question guys.

I've got a dual boot system for both Windows 7 and Windows 10 on 2 separate SSD drives. Am I going to be able to get these setup with a new motherboard and the AMD Ryzen 5 5600X? I'm not sure how this works?

I know it's not going to be a plug and play situation and I'll have to program it in the BIOS, I imagine all mother boards have directions to do this. I know my current MB does, it uses <F12> to get to the boot BIOS.

Will I have any problems just hooking up my drives and running the operating systems?
Windows 7 is going to be a problem with any new CPU and mobo, because the chipset on the mobo won't be recognized properly by Win7, and the folks that make the mobo are not going to have a chipset driver available for Win7.

I ran into that as my previous machine had been dual boot Win7/Xubuntu. Here's what I saw the first time I tried to boot into Windows 7. The machine started booting like normal and I thought "holy crap, it's going to work", but then as it got to the desktop, and everything DID WORK, Windows began popping up "Found New Hardware" messages, one after another and eventually started popping up messages that no suitable driver was found.

When that barrage of alerts finally ended, Windows 7 wanted to re-boot to finish "FIXING" up the machine. On the re-boot, the screen res had switched to 640x480 and the mouse and keyboard no longer worked because all USB had been FIXED by Windows.

I plugged in an old school PS2 keyboard, re-booted again and tried for a while to see if I could fix any of the multiple "Unknown Hardware" devices in the Device Manager to no avail. Not long after that I formatted the 250GB SSD that Win7 was on and called it a day.
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Old 01-24-2021, 06:23 PM   #23
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The chip type won't effect your dual boot capability.

You may have to get used to a different BIOS as the MB takes care of that.

My BIOS options for my ryzen 3600 was not different enough from the I7 I switched to for me to notice.
Thanks garanimals, that's good to know.
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Old 01-24-2021, 06:28 PM   #24
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I plugged in an old school PS2 keyboard, re-booted again and tried for a while to see if I could fix any of the multiple "Unknown Hardware" devices in the Device Manager to no avail. Not long after that I formatted the 250GB SSD that Win7 was on and called it a day.
Well that's it then, I either accept Windows 10 or keep the computer I've got.

I've always know I'd have to get into Win-10 sooner or later. Something I need to consider in the next few days.

Thanks Glenbo, you've been a great help.
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Old 01-24-2021, 06:44 PM   #25
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Well that's it then, I either accept Windows 10 or keep the computer I've got.

I've always know I'd have to get into Win-10 sooner or later. Something I need to consider in the next few days.

Thanks Glenbo, you've been a great help.
No problem Tod. You do have one other option, which would be to buy an older motherboard with a B450 chipset or something that Windows 7 would have drivers for. Then things like USB ports and other hardware on the mobo would be seen properly by Win7 but there would still be a good possibility that a new CPU might not be seen correctly and cause problems.

I wanted a mobo with a PCIe 4.0 NVMe slot so I opted for the still fairly new fanless B550 chipset. In the end I decided the compatibility issues were only going to get worse if I tried to keep Win7. I could have kept it on the old hardware, but I used the old DAW machine to upgrade an antenna based whole house DVR server.
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Old 01-25-2021, 02:13 PM   #26
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Just here to say thank you for all who helped, I wouldn't have been able get the info I needed if it wasn't for all the help.

So in conclusion I'm sticking with the computer I have. I ran a diagnostic check on the CPU and it came out good, all systems passed.

I've got my Window-7 so customised it would take a long time to do the same with Windows-10, and at my age, I don't have the time.
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Old 01-25-2021, 05:28 PM   #27
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At least you'll be ready when the time comes.
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