You can go to preferences/general/advanced to enable HiDPI awareness, which will make everything small.
If you check out the pre-release forum, you can get:
- The Default_5.0_hidpi theme, which will make the TCP/MCP/etc large.
- A preview of the Default 6.0 theme, which has some larger windows.
- Some pre-release builds which have better HiDPI support (including better scaling of themes, drawing of elements, etc). These builds tend to be relatively stable but you should definitely test them a lot before using them in productions.
Note that plug-ins which are not HiDPI aware will look small regardless of what theme or REAPER build you are using.
Hope this helps!
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